We're a bit enamoured with the generally overlooked possibilities of coffee from India, and in particular with the ingenuity and skill of the Thipaiah family. We've bought more of their coffee than ever before this year — including our first Robustas! — and so here's a brand new taster pack entirely from the Kerehaklu farm.
Here's what you'll find inside: Two Arabicas (one washed and one natural) and two Robustas (one washed and one natural) which together provide an unusual picture of high-quality Indian coffee in general as well as the range of options that can emerge from a sustainable farm like Kerehaklu. We doubt you'll find anything else like this set of flavours in one pack.
About the Arabicas:
The washed option is sequentially washed, where the liquid from a previous fermentation, called 'mosto', has been carried along to help jump-start the next. It is then fermented in an oxygen-reduced environment before drying, which is why it's called 'anoxic'. It has very layered flavours that first show up as apple acidity, then creaminess like a custard apple, and then warming notes of cinnamon bark and pecan. Our cup score is 86.
The natural option also is aided by mosto and also anoxic, fermented first before the cherries are dried. It is a louder, rounder coffee. Here we find notes of figs, pears, macadamia nuts, and again the cinnamon note that speaks to the ‘environmental niche’ of Kerehaklu (a term Pranoy uses as he finds it more accurate and less colonial than ‘terroir’). Our cup score on this is 87.
About the Robustas:
This is of course another species entirely from Arabica most often present in cheaper commercial coffee blends. (There are 133 known species of coffee, though specialty coffee has generally focused entirely on Arabica.) While it's true that Arabica is generally more complex, sweeter, and less bitter, that distinction can be somewhat reductive and holds people back from enjoying flavours not as easily found in Arabica. From a farmer's perspective, Arabica is fussier to grow while a more diverse range of species helps mitigate risk and the challenges of a changing climate.
It's important to note that these coffees do 'taste like robusta,' very nutty and sometimes like popcorn. They're reminiscent of classic diner filter coffee, but also much cleaner and more interesting than that. We recommend resting these coffees longer after the roast date (three weeks is ideal) and brewing them with cooler water (try 82 degrees C or so) to enhance the sweetness.
The washed option is comforting with plenty of chocolately, nutty notes (think Snickers and peanut butter) plus a layer of fruity marzipan sweetness that shines through as it cools.
The natural is surprisingly creamy and complex cup with notes of cashew, pumpkin, and oolong tea. (For those who have been lucky enough to try Urrak, it reminds us of that traditional Indian fermented cashew beverage.)
We haven't put scores on the Robustas, because the system is designed for Arabica, but we think they'll challenge your experience of this species.
Meanwhile, if you want to know more about Kerehaklu and its stunningly diverse ecosystem approach to production, you can read about one of Will's trips here.
